CDROM/DVD missing...

B

broxigan

New Member
So, I have searched around and have had no luck thus far finding out what exactly happened to my CDROM/DVD drive. It had been working fine for some time and suddenly, it just doesn't work/show up any more in the Computer area. Nor does it show up in device manager.

My specs are as follows:

Windows Vista Home Premium 64x with Service Pack 1

Intel Core2 Quad CPU Q6600 @ 2.40GHz
4 GB RAM

ACPI x64-based PC

As for what the CDROM/DVD is, I am not too sure at the moment, I will be looking it up soon. The weird thing is, I am pretty sure it shows up in the BIOS.

If anyone might have any clues as to what is going on, or want to walk me through something to help come up with more ideas, lemme know. : /
 

My Computer

System One

Hi Boxigan, and welcome to Vista Forums.

Let's start with the basics. Check all of you cable connections to the drive to make sure that they are secure. Check to see if the drive appears to have it's flashing power led on when hitting the eject button on the drive, or during bootup. Double check the BIOS settings to see if it is there and the correct SATA, RAID, or ATA/IDE type of connection is selected for it.

If everything seems to check out, then see if the drive may have been set to hidden somehow.

http://www.vistax64.com/tutorials/155795-drive-hide-unhide.html

Hope this helps for now,
Shawn

http://www.vistax64.com/tutorials/155588-drive-access-restrict-unrestrict.html
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom
    CPU
    Intel i7-8700K 5 GHz
    Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Maximus XI Formula Z390
    Memory
    64 GB (4x16GB) G.SKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4 3600 MHz (F4-3600C18D-32GTZR)
    Graphics card(s)
    ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-O11G-GAMING
    Sound Card
    Integrated Digital Audio (S/PDIF)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    2 x Samsung Odyssey G7 27"
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    1TB Samsung 990 PRO M.2, 4TB Samsung 990 PRO PRO M.2, 8TB WD MyCloudEX2Ultra NAS
    PSU
    Seasonic Prime Titanium 850W
    Case
    Thermaltake Core P3
    Cooling
    Corsair Hydro H115i
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master 3
    Keyboard
    Logitech wireless K800
    Internet Speed
    1 Gb/s Download and 35 Mb/s Upload
    Other Info
    Logitech Z625 speaker system, Logitech BRIO 4K Pro webcam, HP Color LaserJet Pro MFP M477fdn, APC SMART-UPS RT 1000 XL - SURT1000XLI, Galaxy S23 Plus phone
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP Envy Y0F94AV
    CPU
    i7-7500U @ 2.70 GHz
    Memory
    16 GB DDR4-2133
    Sound Card
    Conexant ISST Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    17.3" UHD IPS touch
    Screen Resolution
    3480 x 2160
    Hard Drives
    512 GB M.2 SSD
Thanks Brink. It is baffeling, the computer itself is BARELY two months old.

I ran the hide/unhide and that did not work. It seems to randomly show up in the BIOS. I just restarted, and it wasn't there. So I restarted once again, and it showed up in the IDE Master.

I popped the restore disk in but got nothing from it. I looked like it was trying to boot to the CD but it ended up loading normally.

I cracked it open last night and made sure the connects were clean, which they are.

I am not sure what to do, the last thing I want to hear is "buy a new ROM" when this one has barely been used.
 

My Computer

System One

Broxigan,

When you tried to boot from the CD, did you get the Press any key to boot from CD/DVD option and pressed a key?

Is the CD/DVD drive connected via IDE cable?

You may need to install the latest chipset drivers for the motherboard.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
    Manufacturer/Model
    Custom
    CPU
    Intel i7-8700K 5 GHz
    Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Maximus XI Formula Z390
    Memory
    64 GB (4x16GB) G.SKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4 3600 MHz (F4-3600C18D-32GTZR)
    Graphics card(s)
    ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-O11G-GAMING
    Sound Card
    Integrated Digital Audio (S/PDIF)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    2 x Samsung Odyssey G7 27"
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    1TB Samsung 990 PRO M.2, 4TB Samsung 990 PRO PRO M.2, 8TB WD MyCloudEX2Ultra NAS
    PSU
    Seasonic Prime Titanium 850W
    Case
    Thermaltake Core P3
    Cooling
    Corsair Hydro H115i
    Mouse
    Logitech MX Master 3
    Keyboard
    Logitech wireless K800
    Internet Speed
    1 Gb/s Download and 35 Mb/s Upload
    Other Info
    Logitech Z625 speaker system, Logitech BRIO 4K Pro webcam, HP Color LaserJet Pro MFP M477fdn, APC SMART-UPS RT 1000 XL - SURT1000XLI, Galaxy S23 Plus phone
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
    Manufacturer/Model
    HP Envy Y0F94AV
    CPU
    i7-7500U @ 2.70 GHz
    Memory
    16 GB DDR4-2133
    Sound Card
    Conexant ISST Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    17.3" UHD IPS touch
    Screen Resolution
    3480 x 2160
    Hard Drives
    512 GB M.2 SSD
Hi broxigan,

When you are in the BIOS, is the time and date showing correctly? Check after your machine has been switched off (and unplugged) for a while. It could be that the battery (usually a type CR2032) has either died or has insufficient power to maintain the CMOS settings. If these settings include specific settings to enable your optical drive to be recognised that are different from the standard default settings then this could explain your problem. Try resetting the BIOS by temporarily removing the battery. Wait a few minutes and then reinsert it. This will clear all settings to their defaults and should force the BIOS to auto-detect any drives on the system. You could use the appropriate jumper on the motherboard, if available (refer to the manual), but this is the best method to absolutely ensure that the BIOS has been reset. Whilst inside your PC, check and double check ALL cables. If you have a suitable spare cable, try that. It is not unheard of for a cable to have a faulty wire and has, in the past, led people to buy new hardware when all they needed to do was to replace the cable. Have you ever used a hoover or other electrical appliance that doesn't work yet when you flex the power cable it comes back on?
 

My Computer

System One

  • Manufacturer/Model
    Dwarf Dwf/11/2012 r09/2013
    CPU
    Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Bridge) (OC 4.2GHz)
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M
    Memory
    4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B (16GB)
    Graphics card(s)
    MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
    Sound Card
    Realtek High Definition on board solution (ALC 898)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic VA1912w Widescreen
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900
    Hard Drives
    OCZ Agility 3 120GB SATA III x2 (RAID 0) Samsung HD501LJ 500GB SATA II x2 Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 1TB SATA II Iomega 1.5TB Ext USB 2.0 WD 2.0TB Ext USB 3.0
    PSU
    XFX Pro Series 850W Semi-Modular
    Case
    Gigabyte IF233
    Cooling
    1 x 120mm Front Inlet 1 x 120mm Rear Exhaust
    Mouse
    Microsoft Comfort Mouse 3000 for Business (USB)
    Keyboard
    Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 3000 (USB)
    Internet Speed
    NetGear DG834Gv3 ADSL Modem/Router (Ethernet) ~4.0 Mb/s (O2)
    Other Info
    Optical Drive: HL-DT-ST BD-RE BH10LS30 SATA Bluray Lexmark S305 Printer/Scanner/Copier (USB) WEI Score: 8.1/8.1/8.5/8.5/8.25 Asus Eee PC 1011PX Netbook (Windows 7 x86 Starter)
Seems to be either faulty cable or port. I would try another port on the mb with a different cable. I have encountered a similar problem and fixed by hot gluing the cable to the dive. Lol. Hope you don't have to do that. Good luck.
 

My Computer

System One

  • CPU
    E6850
    Motherboard
    EVGA 122-CK-NF67-A1 680i
    Memory
    4 x OCZ Platinum 1GB
    Graphics card(s)
    ATI Radeon HD 5850 1GB
    Sound Card
    SB X-Fi X Audio
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 23" 5MS
    Screen Resolution
    2048 x 1152
    Hard Drives
    2 x Barracuda 7200.10 320GB RAID 0 / 1 x 500GB Maxtor
    PSU
    Seasonic 600W M12
    Case
    CM Centurion 5
    Cooling
    air
    Internet Speed
    100Mbps
Brink,

It is connected with an IDE cable into the motherboard. I will check for the chipset when I get home.

Dwarf,

I thought about the possibility of the battery being bad, and I hope that isn't the case. AsI said, the computer is only around 2 months old. If all else fails, I will attempt that and see what happens, but if I recall last night, the time and date have been keeping.

bruce2,

hot glue bad! I think I might have an extra IDE cable laying around somewhere. I may try and find it and see what I can muster out of it. It would at least narrow down my problems.

Thanks a bunch for all the help. I usually work on Macs here at work. A little easier to work with, maintenance wise sometimes.

Here is crossing my fingers it is just chipset drivers.
 

My Computer

System One

Hi broxigan,

It is extremely unlikely to be a driver problem if it is only being intermittently detected in your BIOS. I would check the cable, making sure that it is correctly orientated and that the correct end of the cable is plugged into the motherboard. Also, if the drive is the only device on the cable, forget about the CS jumper setting on the device and instead explicitly set it to 'Master' using the same jumper. In this case, the middle connector is left unused. If you have a spare drive, you could try that (it doesn't matter if it is only a standard CD drive as opposed to a DVD or a recordable DVD drive). This would help you to eliminate the drive itself (there might be a flaky component on the interface board within the drive that is causing these symptoms). If it does turn out to be the drive, then new ones are relatively cheap and you can get them with support for a wide range of optical formats (some also support 'lightscribe', but this just adds to the expense when you realise that this feature only works with specific discs). I currently have 2 LITE-ON DVDRW LH20A1P ATA (IDE) drives on my system, and they can read/write all formats apart from the newer Blu-ray or HD standards.
 

My Computer

System One

  • Manufacturer/Model
    Dwarf Dwf/11/2012 r09/2013
    CPU
    Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Bridge) (OC 4.2GHz)
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M
    Memory
    4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B (16GB)
    Graphics card(s)
    MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
    Sound Card
    Realtek High Definition on board solution (ALC 898)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic VA1912w Widescreen
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900
    Hard Drives
    OCZ Agility 3 120GB SATA III x2 (RAID 0) Samsung HD501LJ 500GB SATA II x2 Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 1TB SATA II Iomega 1.5TB Ext USB 2.0 WD 2.0TB Ext USB 3.0
    PSU
    XFX Pro Series 850W Semi-Modular
    Case
    Gigabyte IF233
    Cooling
    1 x 120mm Front Inlet 1 x 120mm Rear Exhaust
    Mouse
    Microsoft Comfort Mouse 3000 for Business (USB)
    Keyboard
    Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 3000 (USB)
    Internet Speed
    NetGear DG834Gv3 ADSL Modem/Router (Ethernet) ~4.0 Mb/s (O2)
    Other Info
    Optical Drive: HL-DT-ST BD-RE BH10LS30 SATA Bluray Lexmark S305 Printer/Scanner/Copier (USB) WEI Score: 8.1/8.1/8.5/8.5/8.25 Asus Eee PC 1011PX Netbook (Windows 7 x86 Starter)
Dwarf,

It actually is, and was done during manufacturing, into the master slot of the IDE cable, leaving the middle open. Would it make much of a difference to plug the "middle" one in and see if that would get it?

And yeah, I checked around last night after nearly throwing the ROM out the window and saw that I could get what I have now for reasonbly cheap. It lifted my spirits a bit.


If switching the cable around doesn't work, I plan on trying a new cable. If that doesn't get it, then I will start looking into a new drive.
 

My Computer

System One

Hi broxigan,

That is the correct orientation for a single device on an IDE cable. The middle connector is for a second, or 'slave' device. Check the orientation of the cable. The middle connector is actually nearer one end of the cable than the other and it is the end of the cable that furthest away from this connector that is plugged into the motherboard. The connectors are uually, but not always, colour-coded as follows: Motherboard Blue / Slave (middle) Grey / Master Black. They should also be keyed to prevent them from being inserted the wrong way round.
 

My Computer

System One

  • Manufacturer/Model
    Dwarf Dwf/11/2012 r09/2013
    CPU
    Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Bridge) (OC 4.2GHz)
    Motherboard
    ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M
    Memory
    4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B (16GB)
    Graphics card(s)
    MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
    Sound Card
    Realtek High Definition on board solution (ALC 898)
    Monitor(s) Displays
    ViewSonic VA1912w Widescreen
    Screen Resolution
    1440x900
    Hard Drives
    OCZ Agility 3 120GB SATA III x2 (RAID 0) Samsung HD501LJ 500GB SATA II x2 Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 1TB SATA II Iomega 1.5TB Ext USB 2.0 WD 2.0TB Ext USB 3.0
    PSU
    XFX Pro Series 850W Semi-Modular
    Case
    Gigabyte IF233
    Cooling
    1 x 120mm Front Inlet 1 x 120mm Rear Exhaust
    Mouse
    Microsoft Comfort Mouse 3000 for Business (USB)
    Keyboard
    Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 3000 (USB)
    Internet Speed
    NetGear DG834Gv3 ADSL Modem/Router (Ethernet) ~4.0 Mb/s (O2)
    Other Info
    Optical Drive: HL-DT-ST BD-RE BH10LS30 SATA Bluray Lexmark S305 Printer/Scanner/Copier (USB) WEI Score: 8.1/8.1/8.5/8.5/8.25 Asus Eee PC 1011PX Netbook (Windows 7 x86 Starter)
You are right, Dwarf. It is coded and keyed that way. So it looks like it may be a cable issue. I will replace it and see what happens tonight. Thanks a bunch for the help, and your skull avatar creeps the heck out of me. lol
 

My Computer

System One

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